Pastoral Visit to Malta over Easter Weekend
There can be few better places in Europe to celebrate the holiest time of the Christian year than Malta. In this deeply Catholic country, everyone seems to be caught up in the sacred drama that runs from Maundy Thursday to Easter Sunday. It is certainly a drama that is worked out on the streets as much as in the Churches. Pictured above: one of the decorated platforms that form the procession through the streets of Valletta on the evening of Good Friday. I was told that the platforms are so heavy that the wooden beams cause lumps to develop in the shoulder bones of the men who carry them year by year. Large crowds thronged the streets to watch this slow and solemn procession.
There are two Diocese in Europe churches in Malta. The smaller, Holy Trinity Sliema, was consecrated in 1867 by Bishop Walter Trower, the Second Bishop of Gibraltar. Holy Trinity is a handsome, well-proportioned church building. In an act of great generosity, Bishop Trower and his daughter between them purchased and then donated to the church the land on which Holy Trinity is built plus the adjoining ‘Bishop’s House’, which is now a spacious and characterful vicarage.
It was a pleasure to share lunch with Fr. Clem Upton and some members of the Council of Holy Trinity Sliema in the beautiful dining room of Bishop’s House.
This lovely silver pastoral staff was bequeathed to Holy Trinity Sliema by Bishop Henry Knight in 1921. It was loaned by the Council of Holy Trinity to my predecessor, Bishop Geoffrey Rowell, who used it during his ministry in the Diocese. After he returned it, Holy Trinity has kept it safely in a glass case in Bishop’s House.
It is a short ferry ride from Sliema to Valletta. The famous Valletta skyline is dominated by the tower and spire of St. Paul’s Anglican Pro-Cathedral, with the more recent Carmelite dome behind it. St. Paul’s campaign to ‘Save the Valletta skyline’ (notably the tower and spire) has been hugely successful, raising some 8 million euros. 5 million euros of this has been given by the European Union with a view to boosting visitor numbers to historic Valletta. We are deeply grateful to the Late Sir Martin Laing who both spearheaded this campaign and generously donated to it himself.
I very much enjoyed climbing the Cathedral tower. It was a pleasure to see first-hand the restored stonework. The next phase of the work involves restoring the badly eroded high-level facades – passers-by are currently protected from falling stonework by nylon nets, which I was assured would contain all but the largest pieces of stone! And I discovered that the tower houses a fine set of bells which, as and when they can be properly pealed, will produce a rousing sound across the old town of Valletta.
It was a great delight to spend time with Canon David Wright (centre) as he celebrated his first Easter in Malta as Chancellor. Pastoral visits are invaluable opportunities for making connections. I enjoyed seeing again the Archbishop of Malta, Mgr. Charles Scicluna - and the Archbishop arranged for us both to be filmed with him on Maltese television saying the daily office together in Maltese and English. Canon David and I also met with the British Deputy High Commissioner Tristan Gilchrist (right).
We celebrated an Easter Vigil at St. Paul’s that began with the lighting of the Easter candle. A brazier had been prepared on the cathedral porch by Churchwarden Neil Hodgson. This dramatic ceremony symbolising the light of the risen Christ overcoming darkness attracted numerous interested visitors.
The Eucharist on Easter Sunday morning was a glorious celebration of resurrection hope – something we need very much at present. We emerged from the Cathedral into the glorious Valletta sunshine accompanied by a fine rendition of Widor’s Toccata for Organ from Symphony No. 5. After the service we shared in a lunch prepared for us in the atmospheric Cathedral Undercroft.
I presided and preached at the Easter Sunday Eucharist. It was hugely encouraging to see how much the ministry of Canon David and his wife Alice is appreciated. There was a real feeling of new life in the Cathedral, with lots of visitors and an evidently positive sense about the future.
Out in the town, Valetta’s Republic Street was decked with flags and became the site of another procession, this time of course to celebrate the resurrection of Jesus Christ. There were large and jubilant crowds and a stirring marching band.
Reflecting on this visit, I was reminded of the strong sense of connection that Malta has with the history of our Diocese. Before the creation of the unified Diocese in 1980, the Bishops of Gibraltar had frequently lived, at least for part of the year, in Malta – though in the Cathedral Lodge rather than Bishop’s House, Sliema. With Malta being a British colony, the story of the congregations has been linked with British military and diplomatic life. Whereas in large parts of the Diocese we borrow the buildings of others, in Malta we have been endowed with impressive parish church buildings in Sliema and iconic Cathedral buildings in Valletta, both dating from the colonial era. There is a fine collection of prints of all the Bishops of Gibraltar from 1842 onwards at the Cathedral, and beautiful episcopal pastoral staffs in both locations.
In 1992, on the occasion of the 125th anniversary of the consecration of Holy Trinity, the Chancellor of St. Paul’s, Philip Cousins, preached on the text: ‘Nevertheless, God did not choose the people for the place’s sake but the place for the people’s sake.’ As the nature and demographic of the Diocese changes and the influence of the colonial era fades, I am excited to see what God may have in store for our churches on Malta. St. Paul’s, in particular, has real opportunities to be and become a centre of European culture and Christian witness. On Malta, we offer something slightly different from the Roman Catholic Church, whilst also having very friendly relations with this Church. And, unusually for our Diocese, Malta has English as one of its national languages. What opportunities might that open up? I returned from this trip in thankfulness for the ministry that is offered in Malta and with a renewed commitment to pray for the unfolding of its future mission.